Brun Maska aur Chai

Mumbai Meri Jaan

Click image for more info about Mumbai's Irani cafe history.
It was the last week of the first year at my photography school in Mumbai, and we were busy working on our portfolio prints for the student's exhibition. I had stayed back at Sayi's apartment and we were up all night working (mainly having lots of fun). Because of too much caffeine none of us could sleep. At 5:00am I decided to leave for home. Since Arjun stayed at YMCA hostel then, we both took the first train from Andheri to Bombay Central.

Arjun had a big smile when we got down from the train. He said, 'Pari, now is the perfect time for Brun Maska!' I was really thrilled. You are not a Mumbaikar if you haven't had this very humble breakfast at an Irani cafe. Before that day, I had been to some of the cafes for lunch and evening chai but not for the famous early morning fix. So we went to the tiny cafe near the station where warm laadis of pav were been cycled in.

It is more about the experience than actually eating the Brun (bread), maska (butter) and drinking chai. Traditionally it is eaten by dipping the liberally buttered bread into the tea, as it is crusty and can be difficult to chew if not softened. But I am not fond of the oily slick forming on top my tea. I managed to eat it since it was still a little soft being freshly baked. I loved it with a side order of yummy Akuri which is a Zoroastrian form of masala scrambled eggs. There are many breakfast options. Also your chai can be as sweet as you want, with variations such as paani-kam (less water) and khadi-chamach (standing spoon). Pouring the tea into the saucer and slurping it is totally cool here.

Through the course of the day one can find a lot of reasons to visit one of the cafes spread across South Mumbai. Cheap and honestly good food are two reasons not to miss a meal in one of these heritage restaurants. Jimmy Boy cafe at Fort has been the Parsi hub, and serves the best Dhanshak and Mutton berry pulao. Mine and Papa's favourites are the Mava cake, pudding and Lagan nu custard. Papa has lots of stories about Irani restaurants from his college days. I think his stories always made me more curious to keep visiting them.

The hip Cafe Mondegar and Cafe Leopold at the Colaba Causeway are old Irani restaurants converted to create a welcoming ambiance for youngsters to chill with friends after some serious rasta shopping.

The next time I go home I shall shoot some pictures and update this post.

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